Category: Stockholm

Talking to residents, Stockholm hasn’t seen this much snow in years. Lucky me! Coming from Texas snow is a novelty; maybe we’ll get a sprinkling or a light dusting one day that causes chaos outside. Then it eventually turns into ice and becomes a cluster. Not here! The people of Stockholm know how to deal with snow. I’ve learned a few lessons from them and will remember those lessons next time I’m in a real wintry climate.

• Even though the jackets look like Glow Worms or giant sleeping bags (pics below), they’re water resistant and warm. Invest in one instead of wearing a wool jacket.
• Get some boots with cleats!
• Scarves are not just fashion accessories. They really do keep your face and neck warm.
• Wear a hat!
• Walk on your toes and do not put all your weight on one foot. The sidewalks and streets are slippery!
• No one cancels work or school for snow days in Stockholm.
• Portable electric heaters are a friend.
• The first snow fall is beautiful, but after a while the streets look gross and turns into a sloppy mess of stones, sand, ice, and dirty snow.
• Wear gloves! Your hands are gonna get so cold!

I went on a pretty long walk to Stockholms stadhus, one of my absolute favorite local landmarks. It was a fun walk with lots of snow, birds, and even some swans! I’ve also taken some other pictures between that time and now because to me, a native Texan, snow is still quite fascinating!

Hi friends! It’s been awhile! I haven’t done much since the weather has grown colder and the daylight has grown shorter. I guess you could call it daylight, anyway. For the past month it’s just been when I can see the cloudy skies rather than the complete darkness that falls onto the city around 3:30p.

Anyway, thanks to the Systembolaget (the state run liquor store), I can try all kinds of interesting beverages! Most of them are beer, but I have had a chance to try Swedish Glögg, which is their version of mulled wine. It’s quite tasty and does go so well with some saffron semlar buns. Our holiday party was virtual this year, and they even sent us all packages for a Hot Winter Apple Toddy from Cocktail Gruppen. Quite delicious! I’ve added a pic in the slide show, but it’s a mosaic from others because I forgot to take a pic of my own cocktail. Oops!

I’ve also found that I really enjoy the IPAs from BrewDog, even though they’re made in the UK. They have a shop and restaraunt down the street from me, but I haven’t gone into it to avoid potential Coronavirus exposure. While Sweden has been pretty lax about the situation, I tend to go out wearing a mask when I’m in public and try my best to take in social distancing as much as I can. In a weird way, I’ve found that most Swedes react in one of three ways to me wearing a mask:

1. They don’t care.
2. I get stared at and it’s assumed I’m a plague bringer, which means I am given a wide berth to take care of my business.
3. People get really close to me for some reason and that’s super uncomfortable.

Passive aggressive behaviors aside, wearing a mask is a personal choice for sure. I want to eventually have the chance to visit the states at some point and I don’t want to risk playing with variables I can easily mitigate, but I won’t begrudge anyone here who doesn’t do the same. Sweden’s approach to the virus has often come under heavy criticism, but all I know is that I feel safer when I wear a mask, and really, that’s all that matters.

Anyway, stepping off my soapbox and diverting the derail back on track, here are some images of the drinks I’ve tried so far. When it comes to bevies though, nothing beats a hot toddy at the end of a cold day.

As COVID-19 rates increase, I’ve decided to stay in to avoid large crowds and possible exposure. After a polite message from the government to several areas of Sweden with high population rates, other people have also done the same. Our office has even closed again (even during the short time it was reopen, there was a max of only 20 people allowed in office per day) to follow the suggested guidelines to avoid further spreading. The threat is very real and I suspect it’s going to fluxuate as the holidays approach and more people travel.

So the exploration of the city lately has been the areas that are within walking distance. Given that I live in a pretty central area, that’s a great amount of area to traverse. A few Mondays ago, I walked along the waterways and really had a chance to see the seasons change. I also tend to take photos during most random excursions, like a trip to the recycling center, so there isn’t really much of a theme in some of these sets. Tonight I took a trip that led me to Vasagatan, the area I first stayed at during my first trip to Stockholm. It was cool seeing the area from a different perspective, as a resident and not a tourist. The air was crisp, the sky was clear, and the streets and parks are extremely well lit at night. In fact, one of the things I find absolutely breathtaking about this city is how the water and light play together and create some of the most scenic moments ever. I’ve grown to really enjoy these moments away from my computer desk, as it really helps me experience what it’s like living in a major European city.

The days are growing shorter and shorter, as we get closer to the winter solstace; typical sunrise is around 7:30ish, while the sun begins to set around 16:00. It’s been an odd change from the daylight times I’m used to in Central Texas, but it hasn’t been too difficult to acclimate to, all things considered.

Posting two slideshows now for your viewing pleasure. The first set is from a few walks

I still owe you some more photos from a few of my walks, but I just got really excited about my trip to a museum today that I wanted to share! Took a trip to Fotografiska Stockholm and saw some really great exhibits from Miles Aldridge, the Hubble Telescope, Mattias A. Klum, Arno Rafael Minkkinen, and a few other exhibits. Have a look!

As the weather has started to change, a slower pace and cadence has taken hold. I’ve been here for over a month now and have settled most of the adminstrative items that I need to reside here. Yesterday I finished my application for a Swedish ID, got my picture taken, and was given a receipt as proof to bring with me to pick it up when it’s ready.

Life here is different in some of the most odd ways compared to the US. I don’t get packages from the post delivered to my door, but instead it is delivered to a nearby checkpoint that I have to go to for collection. During the last decade I was fortunate enough to live in a duplex and was quickly spoiled by Amazon direct delivery. Amazon is in talks with developing a location in Sweden, but I still don’t know if the accessibility will be quite as good as it was in the US.

I’ve had to make a lot more trips out to stores to get silly things I would just click and order instantly, like a slow cooker, a knife sharpener, and office supplies. The funniest thing about all the places I go to that require any sort of customer service all rely heavily on the Take a Number system. It’s hilarious! If I place a pickup order with Webhallen I have to wait for an email confirmation that my order is ready for pickup. When I get there, I have to navigate to a kiosk that asks if I need help, if I have an order to pick up, or would like to check out! Even when I went to Cervera, I had to take a number to pay for my items. Government buildings now require an outdoor queue first, and when the capacity is allowed, a person is escorted inside, and, you guessed it, asked to take a number. The only place I frequent that doesn’t have a Take a Number system is the grocery stores, but everywhere else, “Please take a number!”.

I’m also getting used to being in a communal building again. I think my neighbor was gone for the last month because in the last few days the noise and door-slamming on this floor has gone up by 100%. They also seem to keep odd hours; chatting and watching TV late into the weeknight evenings but up early on the weekends. Because of this new stimuli that has come into my existence I’m also trying to be more cognizant of the amount of noise and possible intrusive behavior I may have on my neighbors, too.

Speaking of neighbors, I showed off the building’s laundry scheduling system but didn’t go into further detail. There are a lot of unique items in the laundry room here that I’ve never seen before, including a giant dryer room with a big fan that basically airs out your clothes, and some other machine that turns out to be for ironing. I’ve found that laundry in Sweden is really a big deal, with countless blogs and Youtube videos detailing the experience. The most common aspects are this: You schedule your time in the shared space in blocks of 3 hours, you are required to clean up after yourself, and frequently, the space is located at the end of a long hallway in the basement of the building. Always be on time with your booking! People are very particular about this space and don’t like it when you run over your alotted time. The best news though is that once you book the space you won’t be bothered, you don’t have to babysit it, but just tend to it when the timers are up, and as long as you maintain the area your neighbors will be happy. After a few cycles it’s a cinch, but just don’t expect to find any dryer sheets around Sweden; they don’t seem to exist!

I also got to experience a recent Swedish holiday called kanelbullens dag, or Cinnamon Bun Day! It’s like the official start of winter, but with baked goods! Swedes love their pastries, and absolutely love flavoring them with cinnamon and caradamom!

I’ll keep this one short and sweet, with more pictures than words. I’ve never really lived in a place where I had the chance to witness the seasons actually change. For the past two Monday nights I’ve decided to take some really long walks to get used to my surroundings while also getting an opportunity to see the lovely juxtaposition between city life and nature that is unique to Stockholm. Starting at Rålambshovsparken I started walking in one direction following the water, and then the next week, the opposite direction. The first Monday I ended up at City Hall, or Stadshusparken. This Monday I ended up outside of Kristinebergs Båtklubb , which is closed at the moment, but doesn’t matter much to me because I don’t own a boat.

Please enjoy some of the pics I snapped from those walks; I really wish I could relay the beauty here because pictures just don’t do it justice, but this will have to do for now.

I have a confession. A lot of people have asked me what the restaurants are like here in Stockholm and outside of a few opportunities, I really haven’t tried them. That’s because I live within walking distance of five really, really good grocers. I’ve been itching to try out some of the places near me, but I’m always drawn into the local grocery stores by their beautiful produce sections, tantalizing smells, and robust rows of cheese and special seasonings. Here’s the funny thing though, Tabasco costs around $7 a bottle here, but you can get some really great gouda that will last you for a week for less than $4. I have yet to see any jalapenos, but tomatoes and onions are plentiful!

This past weekend I needed to get a few kitchen items and ended up in Stockholm’s prominent shopping district. While Cervera drew me in and took its pound of flesh from my wallet, I couldn’t help but walk around the district in awe of all the people, the shops, and the various wares. There was even a swap meet/farmer’s market going on directly in the center of it all, but since I don’t have Swish set up yet, I didn’t want to look. For those that don’t know, Swish is basically the bank-sanctioned form of Intuit/Square/Paypal here. Everyone takes it, and it’s the most widely accepted way to transfer funds without using cash. It’s basically Venmo on crack.

People have also asked about how prominent Ikea is here (which I still haven’t mustered up the energy for just yet), but the bigger entity that I see on almost every single corner is H&M. There’s even one within walking distance of my apartment! At one point in the Vasaplan district I was standing next to four H&M stores within view, including an H&M Home! FOUR! Each one of them had various different clothing items and different feels to them; one catered specifically to men, another to children, but the primary targeted group was women. It was awesome! By the end of my adventure I was so tired and overwhelmed by the different options that I ended up getting on the wrong train. I wound up in the middle of a Stockholm suburb, but was able to hop on to a train that took me back to the neighborhood where my apartment is. The transit system here is completely unreal and so different from what I’m used to in Austin, and everything is always running on time, too!

Anyway, by the time I came back I was completely wiped and ready for some takeout. I used Wolt to order some ramen from a place called Ai Ramen. I know takeout is kind of cheating on the opportunity to embrace a new place and people watch, but after spending an afternoon in the busy shops and city center, I really just wanted to eat something in my jammies and watch a movie. Reluctantly, I placed my order and within a matter of 15 minutes saw that the delivery was on its way to my door. A very nice gentleman on a bike left my order directly outside of my entry and I was able to collect my items well within 25 minutes of my order.

I ordered the Bebikón and a side of edamame, and it was so delicious! I felt like living in Austin and so close to Ramen Tatsuya had me spoiled, but this was something completely unexpected! The broth had such a robust and well-seasoned flavor that I found myself spooning some of it directly into my mouth. The amount of ingredients in the actual ramen was well balanced, too. The marinated egg was perfect; not too hard or too soft boiled, and wasn’t overly seasoned. The charred corn was actually well cooked, and the other ingredients were perfectly balanced. I’m definitely keeping this place in my favorite order rotation, especially as the colder months come along.

Anyway, time for some pictures! Below are some images from my weekend including my shopping trip and a pic of my ramen adventure that was packed and delivered with care.

I imagine this kind of post is going to be a constant on this blog. For the most part, I’ve been staying in and cooking. The options for vegetarians in Sweden are imense and I’ve yet to feel limited by them. The last two days I decided to venture out and try something other than Max Burger, including a trip to McDonald’s.

I stopped in at a pub down the street for a local IPA and a chance to try some fish and chips. It was pretty standard fair; the chips were chunky and well fried, and the fish was substantial in size. What made it so delicious was the housemade tartar sauce. It had plenty of fresh herbs and didn’t have too much vinegar.

This morning before a trip to H&M, I stopped in again at Cafe Fix. I’m slowly coming to realize this place is going to take all of my food money because of how delicious it is. I ordered a chai latte, which was so good! It had a delicate flavor, wasn’t too heavy on the latte and wasn’t overwhelmed by spice. I also ordered something called a “vegan bagel”, which I thought would be just a plain bagel with some kind of spread on the side. I was wrong! It was a masterpiece of fresh greens, avocado, pine nuts, and grape tomatoes. SO DANG GOOD.

I then decided for dinner I’d give the ol’ McDonald’s across the street from the building a try. I was overwhelmed by all the various vegetarian options available, including an El Maco (yep, that’s Big Mac!). I also opted for the “Shaker Fries” option; you’re given a bag and a seasoning packet to shake up your fries in (the seasoning is basically just a mix of paprika, salt, and pepper). I rounded off the meal with a Coca Cola, which was served with no ice and somehow tasted sweeter than what I was used to. At first I thought it was a Coke Zero, but nope, it was a regular one. It’s interesting how some flavors and things are so universal; other than the vegetarian patty and the soda, everything tasted the exact same as I remembered it from the last time I had McDonald’s years ago in the states.

At some point there are a lot of other things I’d like to try, including ramen, more pastries, egg coffee, different kinds of chocolate, cakes, and more regional European flare. When I do, I’ll be sure to post them here to share with everyone.

Here’s a quick summary of the things I’ve had to get used to in my short time here. The first being that doors actually swing inward; if you know me, then you may know that this is one of my biggest anxieties ever since I heard about the fire at the ill-fated Cocoanut Grove due to a panic-stricken crowd gathering at the entrance door that did not swing outward. Silly, I know, but it’s something I’ve always been observant about since I heard about it years ago. I used to joke with my coworkers (when we actually went into office) about how if there’s a fire we’re all going to be trapped inside because the doors swung inwards (not to mention that there was no working fire alarm in our office. EEP!). Oh, and locks unlock with a counter-clockwise turn, not the other way around. This still continues to pose a problem for me, especially when I’m in a hurry.

While the doors in Stockholm play into my anxiety, there are other things I’ve also had to get used to that aren’t nearly as intense. The first being the order of the road, which goes as so: Bikes > Pedestrians > Cars and Buses. Living in the city, it’s been interesting to see the paradigm change that I was so accustomed to; in Austin most bikes can take the road but often times cars and their drivers angrily swerve around them, sometimes in a hostile way, other times a reasonable fashion, but most frequently, in a passive-aggressive way. Not here! If you’re a bike, you get to breeze through crosswalks and sometimes stoplights. Cars have to wait until all pedestrians walk through the intersection before even attempting a right-hand turn. The rules of the city road are much more pleasant as a pedestrian, and even better if you’re on a bike.

Living in the Bay Area for a short time also prepped me for a mild late summer/early autumn. The weather has been pleasant enough that I am able to open the windows, but the most surprising thing I’ve found is how frequently it rains here. Everyday since I’ve been here there’s been rain, but it always relents within a matter of hours, allowing the sun to make an appearance.

Another aspect that surprised me is that children have a lot more freedom in the city compared to those in North America. I’ve witnessed young children (around 7+) entering the metro and buses solo, walking in groups, and making stops at the stores. This is completely unheard of in North America. I also see men taking children out on walks and even pushing prams (strollers). It’s really cool to see an equal distribution of child-rearing responsibilities in typical Swedish households.

Oh, and Amazon isn’t really much of an option unless I’m willing to pony up for international shipping. It’s honestly the biggest pain point I’ve had to grow accustomed to; in the past if I had a need for something I knew I could easily order it and it would arrive within a day or two, but Amazon does not have an official Swedish site, yet. I’ve had to meet deliveries at street level and haul my items to my door solo. Silly, but it’s something that I definitely took for granted in the states. Let me tell you, trying to track down a PC compatible gamepad has been an ordeal in and of itself.

And of course, there are other mundane changes to life that I’ve had to acclimate to. If you lived in Austin, TX the last few years you’ll remember the city’s push to enforce a reusable bag policy which was deemed unconstitutional by the Texas Supreme Court. Here, it’s a common way of life; bags cost money and if you don’t bring your own there’s a chance you may have to pay a sum to purchase some. I’ve also mentioned how refuse needs to be taken to a recycling center in order to properly dispose of plastic, glass, and paper items. It’s now become a routine aspect of my day to make sure I take a walk a few blocks away to dispose of those things properly; Sweden recycles everything!

And the grocery stores are an adventure in and of itself. You can use a typical hand basket to carry your goods, a typical shopping cart, or a mid-grade draggable plastic basket on wheels that’s size is in-between both of the former items mentioned. Self-checkout lanes are dominant, but one of the surprising aspects you may find yourself facing is the exit scanner. In order to leave the store you need to scan your receipt in order to leave. It’s an interesting but pragmatic change of pace.

I’m sure there are more items that I will remember to note in a later update, but so far those are the biggest things that I’ve had to grow accustomed to in the last week and a half during my time here. Outside of the “hot” salsa, everything else has been business as usual and it’s been interesting to live in an urban area that has access to almost everything, including a Systembolaget within walking distance. Today, I took a chance and went to one to purchase some wine. I was wrong in my initial claim that a personnummer was needed to purchase alcohol, as a foreign passport was enough ID to purchase some alcoholic goods. The hours are very similar to Texas liquor store hours, so I’m already used to having to plan ahead to access such items.

Anyway, if I think of any other incongruous items during my adventures I’ll make sure to post them. If you have any questions or requests, I’m always willing to address them; bring them on!

Friday set the tone for a really great weekend. I met with a coworker and she delivered some beautiful flowers courtsey of the company. We went to one of the oldest cafe establishments in Stockholm, Cafe Fix, and sat outside (in a safe and socially distanced manner). I had an Americano that tasted like caffinated heaven while enjoying really good conversation. Then after, I took a bus to meet another coworker in a park popup that sells beer, ice cream, and all kinds of food, called Omnipollo Flora. It was a picturesque scene, with a backdrop of luscious greenery, children and families out and about, birds fluttering by, and beer. Oh my lord, it was such good beer.

After the meet up, there was still enough daylight left that I decided to legitimately get lost in the city. I stumbled upon a bistro that served some of the best salmon tartare that I indulged in with a delightful glass of Riesling. I set out after my meal and continued to get lost, knowing that with the expansive metro system and Google maps, I couldn’t get too lost. I ended up pretty far from the city, but of course at that moment my bladder decided it was the most optimal time to start screaming at me. I was able to find a lavatory within a train station and set back out to continue my walk. I stumbled upon some beautiful buildings, crossed several bridges, and observed other people in Stockholm go about their day.

Saturday I decided to set out again and try to go to a few museums. I ended up way off course, but it was a happy accident, as I ended up in Östermalm, or Old Town. The old buildings and cobblestone streets were how I always imagined Diagon Alley to actually be like. Navigating those cobblestone pathways was certainly a challenge for me; I’m a person who drags their feet and I quickly learned that the bumps between the stones would continue to trip me if I didn’t at least try to walk without dragging.

After a quick bus ride outside of Old Town, I made it to the island that’s filled with several museums, including the Nordic, Vasa, and ABA Museum. Since I had already been to the Vasa, I opted for the Nordika Museet and it did not disappoint. It was filled with all different kinds of interesting things, including an exhibit on global warming, more information about the Sámi people, and an exhibit dedicated to European modern fashion. It also displayed a lot of creepy antique child mannequins that are probably going to haunt my sleep for a while. I spent a long time here and didn’t get a chance to experience any of the other museums on the island, but that’s okay. That’s what next weekend will be for.

After, I came home, I took a bath, finished a really frightening book called “Dear Laura”, made some really stinky curry that I probably won’t be buying again, and prepared for a long night of staying up to watch AEW’s All Out Pay-Per-View with Jason via Google Hangouts. I couldn’t make it past 3:45am, but what I saw was so entertaining. Not to mention that it was really cool being able to watch something with a giant ocean between us.

I woke around 10am Sunday morning and cleaned the apartment. I found a local store that carries homegoods and I was finally able to get a coffee maker and a wok, among several other useful things I was lacking. I cleaned the new items, put them away, took all my trash to the proper recycling spot, and finished watching All Out. Now, I’m just about to start prepping dinner and get settled in for the next week of work.

I’m still waiting for the wanderlust to wear off; talk to me when I’m here in the midst of winter and see if I’m still loving it as much as I do now. I definitely miss some things, like my monsters and my husband, but it’s still all shiny and new for me. The weather has been extremely pleasant and the people, while I was nervous about not knowing the language fully, have been nothing but accomodating.

It’s still hard for me to believe I spent my birthday here, and despite being alone, I didn’t feel lonely. It was really cool being able to get lost in a new city, see some things, and find my way back. Anyway, here’s a photodump from the weekend! Enjoy!